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Over the years that Jeff and I have come to Patagonia, to climb in the Fitz Roy range, we’ve learn a couple of things, picked up some tips and tricks, and fallen in love with this place.
Where to stay
There are a ton of hostels, apartments and even some camping locations in town to choose from. I’d always choose a hostel, specifically Aylen Aike, if my trip was a month or less. More than a month and I’d try to get an apartment so I can have some personal space. Inquire at Aylen-Aike about getting an apartment, check on AirBnb, or ask other folks who have stayed in the area for a while. I’ve never personally tried the camping grounds, but that is another, cheaper way to have personal space. There is a common area to cook and hang out in, so you aren’t in the elements all the time. I recommend Aylen Aike, Seba is the man, he knows the things climbers want and need, has Rock ‘n Roll music videos always playing, and makes you feel at home (if home involves profuse calls of ‘Muthafucka’ and ‘why aren’t you in the mountains’).
What to bring
- Unless you are coming to climb just one route, and you already know the weather and conditions, bring it all. Bring the mixed kit, the ice kit, the rock climbing kit. You never know what you’ll get a chance to climb.
- Bring lots of cash. The ATM is often empty and cards only work in some places, at some times.
- Goes without saying, but bring a good tag line. The Esprit Alpine Escape Line has served us well for many years.
- Aid gear is very important, because you will probably be aiding, at least a it. Many climbs have a couple of harder sections that you will have to pull on gear to get through.
- Bring your approach legs. The approaches are all sandbagged and difficult. You don’t want to arrive at the base of your coveted climb, already wiped out.
- Your dehydrated meals are important and expensive to buy or impossible to find in town. If you are picky about your trail food, bring it!
What not to bring
- Gas canisters: first of all, you can’t bring them on the plane. Second, it’s not too hard to find someone leaving and giving away their full cans. Of course, you can always buy them in town, too.
- Expectations. Stay flexible to change you plans depending on what the weather does. Cragging and bouldering around town can be some of the best times too
- Hopes of internet faster than a sloth. The best internet still takes forever.
What to do
- On days without precip, go do the approaches to the areas you want to climb in. You’ll get an idea for what you’re in for, you can cache gear for the good weather window, and you’ll stay fit!
- Watch the weather every day. Determine if it’s stable from day to day, and it there are trends, like bad weather hitting early.
- Read the Patagonia Vertical book, cover to cover. It’s full of amazing stories, history, inspiration and information. Donate to pataclimb.com if you find it useful!
Where to eat
- Patagonicus: Amazing Pizza, great photos of the Cesarino Fava, ] and early climbing history in Patagonia. A great place to exchange USD to pesos
- La Brecha: best Mexican food anywhere! Only open on Fridays and Saturdays, from 7-11 PM
- Domo Blanco: THE ice cream place in town! There is a peak called Domo Blanco, with a route on it called Super Domo, named after the ice cream flavor from this place!
- Rancho Grande/La Bierre: Great place to get internet. Rancho Grande serves food 24/7 and changes money
- Curcuma: best vegan restaurant around! Just do it, eat here
- … and many many others!
How to get there
I’ve always flown in through Buenos Aires to El Calafate. It’s also an option to fly to Santiago, then to Bariloche to El Calafate. This route generally takes longer but you can choose to stay in Bariloche to climb at the Frey for a while, especially if the weather is bad in El Chalten.
If you fly to Buenos Aires, you may or may not have to transfer to another airport. The EZE is the main international airport, and the domestic airport is the AEP. You’ll have to get a taxi and go through several tollbooths (which your driver might ask you to cover if he sucks). The cheapest option is to take the bus from Buenos Aires, especially if you are staying there for a night or two. Make sure you have enough time to get from one to the other! If you haven’t been to Buenos Aires, I hands-down recommend checking out the scene, culture and entertainment!
From El Calafate, take a bus (reserve online with Las Lengas) to El Chalten. If you have a lot of luggage and/or people, reserving a private taxi is the way to go.
Once in town, there are a couple of main trailhead. Check out the Approaches section in the Patagonia Vertical guidebook.
